Nasi Tumpeng is a traditional Indonesian ceremonial rice molded into a tall golden cone, representing the sacred mountain in Javanese-Balinese cosmology. The fragrant turmeric-coconut rice is surrounded by an array of colorful side dishes including spiced fried chicken, sweet tempe, chili eggs, and coconut-dressed vegetables, making it the centerpiece of birthdays, graduations, and Independence Day gatherings.
Prep Time45 mins
Cook Time60 mins
Total Time105 mins
Servings8
Yield1 cone-shaped platter (8 servings)
Nutrition Facts
Per serving (estimated)
- 685 kcalCalories
- 32 gFat
- 12 gSaturated Fat
- 62 gCarbs
- 6 gFiber
- 11 gSugar
- 38 gProtein
- 780 mgSodium
- 720 mgPotassium
- 135 mgCalcium
- 5 mgIron
- 28 mgVitamin C
- 185 mcgVitamin A
Ingredients
For the Turmeric Coconut Rice
- 4 cups (800 g) jasmine rice, rinsed and drained
- 2 1/2 cups (600 ml) thin coconut milk
- 1 cup (240 ml) water
- 3 tablespoons turmeric powder or 2 inches fresh turmeric, grated
- 4 pandan leaves, knotted
- 2 stalks lemongrass, bruised
- 2 teaspoons fine sea salt
- 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
For the Spiced Fried Chicken
- 8 bone-in chicken thighs, skin on
- 6 shallots, blended to paste
- 4 garlic cloves, blended
- 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
- 1 tablespoon ground coriander
- 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 2 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste
- About 1/2 inch neutral oil for shallow frying
For the Chili Eggs (Telur Balado)
- 8 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled
- 6 red cayenne chilies, sliced diagonally
- 6 shallots, sliced thin
- 3 garlic cloves, sliced
- 2 ripe tomatoes, diced
- 1 tablespoon grated palm sugar
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 3 tablespoons cooking oil
For the Sweet Tempe (Tempe Orek)
- 400 g tempeh, sliced into thin matchsticks
- 6 shallots, sliced thin
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 red chilies, sliced thin
- 3 tablespoons sweet soy sauce (kecap manis)
- 1 tablespoon grated palm sugar
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) water
- 2 tablespoons cooking oil
For the Coconut Vegetable Salad (Urap)
- 200 g mung bean sprouts, blanched 30 seconds
- 150 g baby spinach, blanched and squeezed
- 100 g long beans, cut into 4 cm pieces and blanched
- 200 g freshly grated coconut, lightly toasted
- 2 tablespoons grated palm sugar
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 2 makrut lime leaves, very thinly sliced
- 1 tablespoon lime juice
For Assembly
- 2 large banana leaves, wilted over a flame for 10 seconds
- 3 tablespoons crispy fried shallots
- Handful of crispy shrimp crackers (kerupuk)
- Sliced cucumber and tomato wedges for garnish
Directions
- Cook the rice: Combine rinsed rice, thin coconut milk, water, turmeric, pandan, lemongrass, and salt in a heavy pot. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer 25 minutes until liquid is absorbed. Rest off heat 10 minutes, then fluff and stir in the lime juice; keep covered and warm.
- Marinate the chicken: Blend shallots, garlic, ginger, coriander, turmeric, and salt into a smooth paste. Rub thoroughly over the chicken thighs and let stand 30 minutes at room temperature, or refrigerate up to 4 hours.
- Fry the chicken: Heat about 1/2 inch of oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat to 170°C/340°F. Fry chicken skin-side down 8 to 10 minutes until deep golden, flip, partially cover, and continue 15 to 20 minutes until cooked through (internal temp 75°C/165°F). Drain on paper towels.
- Make telur balado: In a skillet, sauté shallots, garlic, and chilies in oil over medium heat 3 minutes until fragrant. Add tomatoes, palm sugar, and salt; cook 3 minutes more until softened. Gently fold in the hard-boiled eggs and simmer 2 minutes to coat, taking care not to break the yolks.
- Prepare tempe orek: Heat oil in a wok and stir-fry shallots, garlic, and chilies 2 minutes. Add the tempeh matchsticks and toss 3 minutes. Pour in kecap manis, palm sugar, and water; stir until the liquid reduces and glazes the tempeh, about 5 minutes.
- Toss the urap: In a large bowl, combine the blanched bean sprouts, spinach, and long beans with the toasted coconut, palm sugar, salt, makrut lime, and lime juice. Toss gently and adjust salt and sugar to taste.
- Shape the cone: Line a large round platter with wilted banana leaves. Mound the warm rice in the center and, using slightly dampened hands or a rice paddle, shape it into a tall, smooth cone about 30 cm high. Press firmly so the cone holds its shape without crumbling.
- Arrange the sides: Place the fried chicken, balado eggs, tempe orek, and urap around the base of the cone in distinct color blocks. Tuck cucumber and tomato wedges between the mounds and crown the very top with a small bouquet of pandan or a single red chili, then shower with fried shallots.
- Serve ceremonially: Present the whole platter at the table. Traditionally the host cuts off the tip of the cone first as a gesture of gratitude. Offer shrimp crackers and a small bowl of sambal on the side; each diner takes rice and sides onto their plate.
- Store leftovers: Rice is best eaten within 4 hours of shaping. Refrigerate any remaining rice and sides in airtight containers up to 2 days; reheat rice with a splash of water to restore softness.
Cook’s Notes
- Use fresh turmeric root rather than powder when available; the resulting color is brighter and the aroma more pronounced.
- To shape a stable cone, use rice that is still warm and slightly sticky; cold, fully dried-out rice will not hold its form.
- For a more luxurious version, dissolve a pinch of saffron threads in 2 tablespoons of the warm coconut milk before adding it to the rice.
- Prepare all the side dishes up to one day in advance and reheat just before assembly to reduce day-of cooking stress.
- Tumpeng is meant to be shared; arrange the sides generously so the platter looks abundant, reflecting the Javanese philosophy of gotong royong (mutual cooperation).










