This iconic Balinese specialty features a whole chicken rubbed and stuffed with base genep, a fiery paste of turmeric, ginger, galangal, chilies, and aromatic herbs. Traditionally wrapped in banana leaves and slow-cooked for hours, the chicken becomes fall-off-the-bone tender with deep, fragrant heat in every bite. Serve with steamed rice and sambal matah for an authentic taste of Bali.
Prep Time30 mins
Cook Time150 mins
Total Time180 mins
Servings4
Yield4 servings
Nutrition Facts
Per serving (estimated)
- 485 kcalCalories
- 28 gFat
- 9 gSaturated Fat
- 11 gCarbs
- 3 gFiber
- 4 gSugar
- 44 gProtein
- 720 mgSodium
- 680 mgPotassium
- 95 mgCalcium
- 4 mgIron
- 18 mgVitamin C
- 125 mcgVitamin A
Ingredients
Fresh aromatics
- 8 large shallots, peeled and roughly chopped
- 6 garlic cloves
- 30 g (1 oz) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
- 20 g (0.7 oz) fresh galangal, peeled and sliced
- 30 g (1 oz) fresh turmeric, peeled and sliced (or 2 tsp ground)
- 2 lemongrass stalks, white parts only, sliced
- 8 kaffir lime leaves, torn
- 6 fresh red chilies, roughly chopped
Spices and seasonings
- 2 tbsp coriander seeds, toasted
- 4 candlenuts or macadamia nuts
- 1 tsp black peppercorns
- 1 tsp shrimp paste (terasi), toasted
- 1 tbsp palm sugar or brown sugar
- 1 tsp tamarind paste
- 1.5 tsp fine sea salt
- 3 tbsp coconut oil, melted
For the chicken and stuffing
- 1 whole chicken (about 1.5 kg / 3.3 lb), giblets removed
- 2 tbsp coconut oil, for rubbing
- 4 kaffir lime leaves
- 2 lemongrass stalks, lightly bruised
- 1 lime, halved
For wrapping and serving
- 4-6 large banana leaves, softened over a flame
- Kitchen twine, for tying
- Steamed jasmine rice, to serve
- Sambal matah, to serve
- Lime wedges, to serve
Directions
- Make the spice paste: combine all fresh aromatics with the spices and seasonings in a food processor. Blend to a coarse, fragrant paste, scraping down as needed and adding 1-2 tablespoons of water only if the mixture is too dry to blend.
- Prepare the chicken: pat the chicken dry inside and out with paper towels. Using your fingers or the handle of a spoon, gently loosen the skin over the breast and thighs to create pockets for the spice paste.
- Stuff and coat: rub about two-thirds of the paste all over the bird, working some under the skin and inside the cavity. Stuff the cavity with the remaining paste, fresh kaffir lime leaves, bruised lemongrass, and lime halves. Tie the legs together with twine, tuck the wing tips under, and let marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes or refrigerate up to overnight for deeper flavor.
- Wrap in banana leaves: lay two overlapping banana leaves on a work surface to form a large rectangle. Place the chicken in the center and wrap tightly, folding the ends underneath like a parcel. Secure with kitchen twine at 5 cm (2 inch) intervals, then wrap the whole package in a large sheet of aluminum foil to seal in moisture.
- Slow-roast: preheat the oven to 160 degrees C (320 degrees F). Place the wrapped chicken in a roasting pan and cook for 2 to 2.5 hours, until the chicken is completely tender and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 85 degrees C (185 degrees F).
- Rest the chicken: remove from the oven and let the parcel rest, still wrapped, for 15 minutes so the juices redistribute and the carryover heat finishes cooking the meat gently.
- Unwrap and carve: carefully open the banana leaf parcel, taking care as steam escapes. Transfer the chicken to a warm serving platter, spoon the pooled spice juices over the top, and carve into pieces.
- Serve immediately with steamed jasmine rice, a side of sambal matah, and lime wedges for squeezing over the rich, fragrant meat.
Cook’s Notes
- Marinate the chicken overnight in the refrigerator for the deepest, most traditional flavor penetration.
- If banana leaves are unavailable, substitute with parchment paper plus a tight layer of foil to keep moisture locked in.
- True Ayam Betutu is sometimes cooked for 4-6 hours; this 2.5 hour version is a practical shortcut that still yields very tender, flavorful meat.
- Sambal matah (raw shallot and chili relish with coconut oil and lime) is the classic, sharp counterpoint to this rich dish.
- Leftover spice paste keeps in the freezer for up to 2 months and is excellent for marinating fish, pork, or firm tofu.










