Chilean Pit-Cooked Seafood and Potato Stew

Chilean Pit-Cooked Seafood and Potato Stew

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Curanto en hoyo is a Chilote tradition from Chiloé Island where shellfish, fish, pork, potatoes, and herbs are layered over hot stones in an earth pit and slow-cooked in their own steam. This home version recreates the savory, mineral-rich broth using a deep Dutch oven nestled in a kettle grill with coals above and below, sealing in the oceanic flavors with only a whisper of smoke.

Prep Time45 mins
Cook Time120 mins
Total Time165 mins
Servings6
Yield6 servings

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

  • 615 kcalCalories
  • 22 gFat
  • 7 gSaturated Fat
  • 48 gCarbs
  • 6 gFiber
  • 5 gSugar
  • 52 gProtein
  • 1480 mgSodium
  • 1320 mgPotassium
  • 185 mgCalcium
  • 6.5 mgIron
  • 38 mgVitamin C
  • 120 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For the seafood and meat layers

  • 1.5 lb littleneck clams, scrubbed
  • 1 lb black mussels, debearded
  • 1 lb whole Pacific cod or ling fillet, cut into 2-inch chunks
  • 1/2 lb whole prawns in shells
  • 1 lb pork shoulder, cut into 1.5-inch cubes
  • 8 oz beef short ribs, cut into 2-inch pieces
  • 1 large smoked pork sausage (cholorzo-style if available), sliced 1/2 inch thick
  • 2 cups cold seawater or 1 tbsp sea salt dissolved in 2 cups water

For the vegetable and aromatic layers

  • 2.5 lb Yukon gold potatoes, unpeeled, sliced 1/2 inch thick
  • 1 large green cabbage, cut into 6 wedges through the core
  • 3 large yellow onions, sliced 1/2 inch thick
  • 1 bunch fresh milcao or parsley, leaves only
  • 6 fresh cilantro stems
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 2 tbsp smoked paprika
  • 2 tbsp coarse sea salt
  • 1 whole head garlic, halved crosswise

For the pit and setup

  • 8 lb large river stones or lava rocks
  • 2 large bundles fresh rhubarb or cabbage leaves, plus 2 clean cotton kitchen towels
  • 3 lbs hardwood lump charcoal, plus 1 small bundle kindling

Directions

  1. Rinse the river stones and build a fire in a kettle grill or a 2-foot-deep pit in the ground; heat the stones for 90 minutes until they glow dull red and are too hot to hold with bare hands.
  2. While the stones heat, toss the pork shoulder and short ribs with 1 tbsp sea salt and the smoked paprika; let stand 15 minutes. Slice the potatoes and onions, scrub the shellfish under cold water, and drain the prawns.
  3. Spread the glowing stones across the bottom of the pit or a wide Dutch oven set over a bed of coals. Lay half the rhubarb leaves across the hot stones to create a natural barrier and prevent scorching.
  4. Layer in this order: potato slices, then onions, then cabbage wedges, then pork pieces and short ribs, then sausage slices, then the fish chunks, and finally the clams and mussels distributed hinge-side down so the shells open upward.
  5. Nestle the whole prawns into the gaps and tuck the parsley, cilantro stems, bay leaves, and halved garlic head around the edges. Season generously with the remaining sea salt.
  6. Pour the seawater evenly over the mound, then drape the remaining rhubarb leaves over the top followed by the damp cotton towels to create a tight seal.
  7. Cover the Dutch oven with its lid and bury it under fresh coals; if using a pit, mound 6 inches of earth over the leaf bundle. Cook undisturbed for 2 hours, then carefully lift a corner and check that the clam and mussel shells have popped wide open.
  8. Lift the lid (or peel back the earth carefully), remove the towels and leaves, and use a slotted spoon to transfer the seafood, meats, and vegetables to a wide platter; ladle the broth pooled at the base into small bowls.
  9. Serve immediately with crusty bread, pickled chili sauce (ají), and small glasses of chilled pipeño wine, encouraging diners to mix broth and solids on each spoonful.

Cook’s Notes

  • If river stones are unavailable, use clean BBQ lava rocks heated for the same time; never use stones that have trapped moisture (river-smoothed rocks can shatter explosively).
  • Substitute water with a shellfish stock (shells simmered 20 minutes) if you cannot source real seawater, though the minerals from seawater are the soul of the dish.
  • Cholorzo is a Chilean smoked pork and rice sausage; substitute with Spanish chorizo fresco plus a pinch of cumin for close authenticity.
  • For a true underground cook, line the pit with a stainless steel stockpot or heat-safe enamel basin so the broth does not soak into the soil.
  • Leftover broth strained through a fine mesh can be chilled and used within 3 days as a base for a Chilote-style seafood chowder.