Crossing the Bridge Rice Noodles

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This Yunnan classic gets its name from the legend of a wife crossing a bridge to bring hot broth to her scholar husband. The magic lies in a fiercely hot, deeply savory chicken-and-ham broth poured at the table over paper-thin raw proteins, wild mushrooms, and silky rice noodles, which cook instantly in the bowl. This version leans on Yunnan-style cured ham and an assortment of fresh mushrooms for a deeply aromatic bowl.

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

• 620 kcalCalories
• 18 gFat
• 5 gSaturated Fat
• 62 gCarbs
• 4 gFiber
• 5 gSugar
• 46 gProtein
• 1280 mgSodium
• 920 mgPotassium
• 110 mgCalcium
• 5 mgIron
• 18 mgVitamin C
• 280 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For the broth

• 4 lb chicken backs and wings
• 1 lb pork neck bones
• 2 oz Yunnan-style cured ham (Xuanwei or Jinhua), diced
• 12 cups cold water
• 1 large yellow onion, halved and charred
• 4 slices fresh ginger, smashed
• 2 star anise
• 1 small cinnamon stick
• 1 tbsp kosher salt
• 1 tsp ground white pepper

For the proteins (sliced paper-thin)

• 8 oz boneless chicken breast, frozen 20 minutes then sliced thin
• 6 oz pork tenderloin, frozen 20 minutes then sliced thin
• 6 oz boneless catfish or tilapia fillet, sliced thin
• 1 large egg white
• 1 tsp cornstarch
• 1/2 tsp salt

For the vegetables and mushrooms

• 4 oz fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and quartered
• 4 oz oyster mushrooms, torn into strips
• 3 oz enoki mushrooms, trimmed
• 4 baby bok choy, halved lengthwise
• 1 cup mung bean sprouts, rinsed
• 1 medium carrot, cut into matchsticks

For assembly

• 1 lb fresh wide rice noodles (or 12 oz dried, cooked and cooled)
• 4 scallions, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves
• 1/4 cup pickled mustard greens (suan cai), chopped
• 2 tbsp Yunnan-style chili oil with crushed Sichuan peppercorns
• 1 tbsp light soy sauce
• 1 tsp toasted sesame oil

Directions

1. Build the broth: combine chicken backs, pork bones, ham, charred onion, ginger, star anise, cinnamon, and water in a pressure cooker. Lock the lid and cook at high pressure for 40 minutes, then release. (Alternatively, simmer uncovered in a stockpot for 3 to 4 hours, skimming often.) Strain through a fine sieve, season with salt and white pepper, and return the liquid to the pot. Keep it at a rolling boil throughout the meal so the proteins cook on contact.
2. Prep the proteins: in a bowl, toss the sliced chicken, pork, and fish with the egg white, cornstarch, and salt until lightly coated. Arrange in a single layer on a cold platter and refrigerate until ready to serve.
3. Prep the vegetables: arrange shiitake, oyster, and enoki mushrooms, bok choy, bean sprouts, and carrot sticks on a separate serving platter so diners can mix and match.
4. Warm the bowls: pour just-boiled water into four large wide bowls, swirl, and discard. Divide the rice noodles among the warmed bowls.
5. Set the table: bring the boiling broth pot to the center on a portable burner, keeping it at a vigorous rolling boil. Place the protein platter, vegetable platter, and garnishes alongside the bowls.
6. Build a bowl: lay a few slices each of chicken, pork, and fish over the noodles, then add a handful of mushrooms, bok choy, sprouts, and carrot.
7. Pour and cook: ladle about 2 cups of the boiling broth directly over the toppings in each bowl; the heat should instantly turn the proteins opaque and wilt the greens. The broth must be at a full boil to work.
8. Finish: scatter scallions, cilantro, and pickled mustard greens over the top, then drizzle with chili oil, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Stir once and eat immediately while piping hot.
9. Refill as you go: keep the broth boiling and add more raw slices and vegetables directly to your bowl, ladling fresh hot broth over them as you continue eating.

Cook’s Notes

• The broth absolutely must be at a hard rolling boil when poured over the proteins. Lukewarm broth will leave you with raw fish and a food-safety problem.
• Freeze the chicken, pork, and fish for 20 to 30 minutes before slicing; semi-frozen meat is far easier to cut into the translucent, paper-thin slices that cook in seconds.
• If you cannot find Yunnan Xuanwei ham, substitute Jinhua ham, Smithfield country ham, or even a thick slice of prosciutto for a salty, umami backbone.
• Use the freshest wide rice noodles you can find; freshly steamed rice noodles have a springy, slippery texture that dried noodles cannot fully match.
• Add the chili oil and sesame oil only after pouring the broth so their aromatics stay bright and do not get cooked out.

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