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Loading...A signature dish from Bali, this grilled fish is slathered in a fragrant spice paste of shallots, galangal, turmeric, and candlenuts, then wrapped in banana leaves and smoked over charcoal. The leaves keep the flesh moist while infusing it with a subtle earthy sweetness that balances the bold, warming spices.
Prep Time25 mins
Cook Time20 mins
Total Time45 mins
Servings4
Yield4 whole fish
Nutrition Facts
Per serving (estimated)
- 380 kcalCalories
- 22 gFat
- 6 gSaturated Fat
- 8 gCarbs
- 2 gFiber
- 3 gSugar
- 38 gProtein
- 420 mgSodium
- 650 mgPotassium
- 80 mgCalcium
- 3 mgIron
- 8 mgVitamin C
- 45 mcgVitamin A
Ingredients
For the fish
- 4 whole mackerel or red snapper (about 400 g each), gutted and butterflied
- 2 tablespoons coconut oil, melted
- 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 4 large banana leaves, briefly passed over flame to soften
- 2 bamboo or wooden skewers, soaked in water
For the Balinese spice paste (base be pasih)
- 8 shallots, roughly chopped
- 6 garlic cloves
- 30 g fresh ginger, sliced
- 25 g fresh galangal, sliced
- 2 tablespoons fresh turmeric root (or 1 teaspoon ground turmeric)
- 3 candlenuts, roughly chopped
- 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, toasted
- 2 teaspoons shrimp paste (terasi), toasted
- 4 red bird's eye chilies, stemmed
- 2 stalks lemongrass, white part only, sliced
- 4 kaffir lime leaves, veined removed and sliced
- 2 tablespoons coconut oil
- 1 tablespoon tamarind pulp mixed with 2 tablespoons warm water, strained
For serving
- Steamed jasmine rice
- Lime wedges
- Sambal matah (optional)
- Fresh cilantro leaves
Directions
- In a dry skillet over medium heat, toast the coriander seeds and shrimp paste separately for 30 seconds each until fragrant; set aside to cool.
- Combine shallots, garlic, ginger, galangal, turmeric, candlenuts, toasted coriander, shrimp paste, chilies, lemongrass, and kaffir lime leaves in a food processor. Pulse to a coarse paste, then drizzle in 2 tablespoons of coconut oil and the tamarind liquid and blend until smooth and thick.
- Score the flesh of each butterflied fish with three diagonal cuts on each side, then rub salt all over, working it into the slashes and cavity. Let rest for 10 minutes.
- Pat the fish dry with paper towels, then smother them generously with the spice paste, pressing it into the cuts and cavity so the flesh is completely coated. Marinate for 15 minutes at room temperature.
- Lay each fish on a banana leaf, fold the leaf over to enclose, and tuck the ends underneath. Thread a soaked skewer through the wrapped fish to secure the parcel for grilling.
- Prepare a charcoal grill and bank the hot coals to one side. Place the wrapped fish on the cooler side and cover the grill. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes per side, turning once, until the banana leaves are charred and the fish inside flakes easily when tested with a fork.
- For the final 2 minutes, move the parcels directly over the heat for a brief smoky char on the outside leaves, watching carefully so they do not burn through.
- Unwrap the fish at the table, sliding the fragrant flesh onto plates and discarding the charred leaves. Serve immediately with steamed jasmine rice, lime wedges, and a side of sambal matah if desired.
Cook’s Notes
- For the most authentic flavor, source fresh banana leaves from an Asian market; blanching them in hot water for 10 seconds makes them pliable and less likely to tear.
- If candlenuts are unavailable, substitute macadamia nuts for a similar creamy texture and mild flavor in the paste.
- Mackerel is traditional in Bali, but red snapper, sea bass, or trout work beautifully if you prefer a milder, sweeter flesh.
- Toasting the shrimp paste in a dry pan before blending is essential; it blooms the umami aroma and removes any raw, fishy edge.
- Cook on the cooler side of the grill to let the spices steam inside the banana leaf wrapper; finishing briefly over direct heat gives the smoky aroma Bali is famous for.
