Indonesian Grilled Fish with Aromatic Spice Paste

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This Indonesian-style grilled fish, known locally as Ikan Bakar, features a whole fish marinated in a fragrant paste of shallots, turmeric, ginger, and candlenuts, then grilled until the skin is smoky and crisp. The marinade of coconut milk and sweet soy sauce keeps the flesh tender while building a deeply savory, lightly caramelized crust.

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

• 385 kcalCalories
• 18 gFat
• 8 gSaturated Fat
• 12 gCarbs
• 2 gFiber
• 7 gSugar
• 38 gProtein
• 640 mgSodium
• 780 mgPotassium
• 95 mgCalcium
• 3 mgIron
• 18 mgVitamin C
• 130 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For the fish

• 4 whole fish (about 350 g each), such as snapper or mackerel, cleaned and gutted
• 1 tablespoon lime juice
• 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 2 banana leaves, softened over a flame (optional)

For the spice paste (bumbu)

• 6 shallots, peeled and roughly chopped
• 4 garlic cloves
• 2 cm piece fresh ginger, sliced
• 1 cm piece fresh turmeric (or 1 teaspoon ground turmeric)
• 2 candlenuts or macadamia nuts, chopped
• 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, toasted and ground
• 2 red bird's-eye chilies, seeded for mild heat
• 1 teaspoon palm sugar, grated
• 1 teaspoon salt

For the marinade

• 120 ml coconut milk
• 2 tablespoons kecap manis (sweet soy sauce)
• 1 tablespoon tamarind paste
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

For serving

• Lime wedges
• Steamed jasmine rice
• Sambal kecap or fresh chili sauce

Directions

1. In a small dry pan over medium heat, toast the coriander seeds for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant, then grind with a mortar and pestle or spice grinder.
2. Combine the toasted coriander with shallots, garlic, ginger, turmeric, candlenuts, chilies, palm sugar, and salt. Blend or pound to a smooth paste, adding a splash of water if needed.
3. In a bowl, whisk the coconut milk, kecap manis, tamarind paste, and oil into the spice paste to form a thick, pourable marinade.
4. Pat the fish dry, slash each side with 3 diagonal cuts, and rub all over with lime juice and salt. Generously coat the fish inside and out with the marinade, pressing it into the slashes, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
5. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for medium-high heat (about 200 °C). If using banana leaves, lay each fish on a piece large enough to wrap it loosely; otherwise oil the grates well.
6. Grill the fish for 10 to 12 minutes per side, basting occasionally with leftover marinade, until the skin is charred in spots and the flesh near the bone flakes easily with a fork.
7. Carefully transfer to a platter, rest for 3 minutes, and serve hot with lime wedges, steamed rice, and sambal on the side.

Cook’s Notes

• Choose firm, oily fish like mackerel, snapper, or grouper; they hold up best on the grill and absorb the spice paste well.
• If a charcoal grill is unavailable, broil the fish on a foil-lined tray 10 cm from the heat, turning once and basting with marinade.
• Banana leaves add an authentic aroma and prevent the fish from sticking; pre-soaked bamboo skewers through the flesh also help keep whole fish intact on the grill.
• Marinate for at least 30 minutes, but no longer than 4 hours, or the acid in the tamarind can break down the flesh too much.
• Leftover spice paste keeps refrigerated for up to 5 days and works wonderfully as a stir-fry base or rubbed onto chicken.

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