A signature street food of Nepal, these smoky skewers are marinated overnight in a fragrant blend of yogurt, timur pepper, cumin, and mustard oil, then flame-kissed over glowing charcoal embers. The result is deeply spiced, juicy, and tingly thanks to the Sichuan-style peppercorns unique to Himalayan cooking. Served hot with raw onion and lime wedges, this is the definitive Kathmandu-evening snack.
Prep Time30 mins
Cook Time20 mins
Total Time50 mins
Servings4
Yield4 servings (8-10 skewers)
Nutrition Facts
Per serving (estimated)
- 385 kcalCalories
- 22 gFat
- 7 gSaturated Fat
- 6 gCarbs
- 1 gFiber
- 2 gSugar
- 38 gProtein
- 950 mgSodium
- 620 mgPotassium
- 95 mgCalcium
- 4.5 mgIron
- 8 mgVitamin C
- 75 mcgVitamin A
Ingredients
For the meat and marinade
- 1.5 lbs (680 g) boneless goat shoulder or chicken thigh, cut into 1.5-inch cubes
- 1/2 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
- 3 tbsp mustard oil, divided
- 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
- 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste (equal parts grated ginger and garlic)
- 1 tbsp timur peppercorns (or Sichuan peppercorns), freshly ground
- 2 tsp ground cumin
- 2 tsp ground coriander
- 1.5 tsp Kashmiri red chili powder
- 1 tsp ground turmeric
- 1.5 tsp fine sea salt
For grilling and serving
- 8 to 10 bamboo or metal skewers (soak bamboo 30 minutes)
- 1 large red onion, sliced into thick rings
- 1 lemon, cut into wedges
- 2 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro
- 1 tsp chaat masala (optional)
Directions
- In a large bowl, whisk together yogurt, 2 tablespoons mustard oil, lemon juice, ginger-garlic paste, ground timur, cumin, coriander, chili powder, turmeric, and salt until a smooth paste forms.
- Add the cubed meat to the marinade and massage thoroughly so every piece is coated. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours, preferably overnight, to let the spices penetrate the fibers.
- Thread 4 to 5 cubes of marinated meat onto each skewer, leaving small gaps between pieces so heat circulates evenly and the edges can char.
- Prepare a charcoal grill for high direct heat (about 450°F / 230°C); the coals should be ashy white with no flames. A cast-iron grill pan over high heat is the best indoor alternative.
- Lay the skewers on the hottest part of the grill and cook 3 to 4 minutes per side, turning often, until the exterior is deeply charred in spots and the interior reaches 145°F (63°C) for goat or 165°F (74°C) for chicken.
- During the final minute of grilling, brush the meat lightly with the remaining 1 tablespoon of mustard oil for the glossy finish and pungent aroma characteristic of authentic Nepalese barbecue.
- Transfer skewers to a warm platter and let rest 3 minutes so the juices redistribute through the meat.
- Serve immediately on a banana leaf or platter with sliced raw onion, lemon wedges, a sprinkle of chaat masala, and fresh cilantro.
Cook’s Notes
- Use goat shoulder for the most authentic chew and flavor; chicken thigh is the leaner substitute most tourists encounter first.
- Timur (Nepalese Sichuan peppercorns) provides the signature tingly numbness—do not substitute with regular black pepper.
- Marinating overnight is non-negotiable for tough cuts like goat; it both tenderizes and seasons the meat all the way through.
- Live hardwood charcoal imparts a smoky depth that gas grills simply cannot replicate—use lump charcoal if possible.
- Always soak bamboo skewers in water for at least 30 minutes, or they will incinerate over the hot coals.










