Istrian Minestrone

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This rustic Istrian minestrone is a hearty, slow-simmered blend of borlotti beans, cabbage, potatoes, and pancetta from the Croatian peninsula of Istria. Every farmhouse in the region has its own version, built around whatever is in the garden and the pantry. A bowl is deeply satisfying, gently smoky, and proof that simple ingredients shine with a little patience.

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

• 390 kcalCalories
• 14 gFat
• 4 gSaturated Fat
• 48 gCarbs
• 11 gFiber
• 7 gSugar
• 20 gProtein
• 720 mgSodium
• 950 mgPotassium
• 130 mgCalcium
• 4.5 mgIron
• 22 mgVitamin C
• 180 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For the base

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 100 g pancetta or smoked ham, diced
• 1 large yellow onion, finely diced
• 2 carrots, diced
• 2 celery ribs, diced
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste

For the soup

• 1 cup dried borlotti or cranberry beans, soaked overnight and drained
• 2 medium Yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1.5 cm cubes
• 2 cups thinly shredded savoy or green cabbage
• 6 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 sprig fresh rosemary
• 1/2 cup small dried pasta such as tubetti or ditalini
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

To finish

• 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
• Finely grated Istrian or Parmesan cheese, for serving
• A drizzle of good olive oil, for serving

Directions

1. Heat the olive oil in a heavy 5-litre pot over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the bits turn golden and crisp, about 4 minutes.
2. Add the onion, carrots, and celery and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables soften and the onion turns translucent, about 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic and tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes more, until fragrant and brick-red.
3. Add the drained beans, potatoes, cabbage, stock, bay leaf, and rosemary. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, partially cover, and simmer gently until the beans and potatoes are completely tender, 30 to 35 minutes. If the surface foams, skim it off.
4. Stir in the pasta and simmer uncovered until it is cooked al dente, 10 to 12 minutes. The soup should be thick enough to coat a spoon but loose enough to ladle easily; add a splash of water or stock if it has reduced too much.
5. Remove and discard the bay leaf and rosemary sprig. Season with the salt and pepper, taste, and adjust. Let the soup rest off the heat for 5 minutes so the beans soak up the broth.
6. Ladle into warm bowls, scatter the parsley over the top, and finish with a generous grating of cheese and a swirl of olive oil. Serve with crusty bread.

Cook’s Notes

• Soak the borlotti beans overnight in plenty of cold water with 1 teaspoon of baking soda; this softens their skins and cuts the cooking time dramatically.
• For a quick weeknight version, swap the dried beans for a 400 g tin of borlotti beans, rinsed, added in step 3 along with 1 cup less stock.
• A parmesan or pecorino rind simmered with the broth adds a deep savoury undertow; fish it out before serving.
• Vegetarians can skip the pancetta entirely and use a smoked paprika and mushroom stock to keep the rustic, smoky character.
• Traditional Istrian versions sometimes enrich the soup with a knob of butter at the end, which rounds out the tomato and olive oil nicely.

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