Grandmother's Parisian Veal Chop with Mushrooms and Lardons

Grandmother’s Parisian Veal Chop with Mushrooms and Lardons

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Côte de Veau Grand-Mère is a beloved Parisian bistro classic: thick bone-in veal chops braised with smoky lardons, golden pearl onions, earthy mushrooms, and a glossy white-wine pan sauce. It is rustic, generous comfort cooking the way a French grandmother would make it on a Sunday afternoon.

Prep Time20 mins
Cook Time50 mins
Total Time70 mins
Servings4
Yield4 veal chops with sauce

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

  • 615 kcalCalories
  • 38 gFat
  • 14 gSaturated Fat
  • 12 gCarbs
  • 2 gFiber
  • 5 gSugar
  • 48 gProtein
  • 780 mgSodium
  • 980 mgPotassium
  • 65 mgCalcium
  • 3.6 mgIron
  • 7 mgVitamin C
  • 190 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For the veal and vegetables

  • 4 bone-in veal rib chops, about 8 oz (225 g) each and 1 inch thick, at room temperature
  • 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • 3/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 4 oz (115 g) thick-cut smoked bacon or lardons, diced
  • 12 oz (340 g) cremini mushrooms, quartered
  • 14 oz (400 g) pearl onions, peeled
  • 3 cloves garlic, finely minced

For the braising liquid and finishing

  • 1 tbsp unsalted butter
  • 1 tbsp all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup (240 ml) dry white wine, such as Muscadet
  • 1 1/4 cups (300 ml) low-sodium veal or chicken stock
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 tbsp cold unsalted butter, cubed
  • 2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

Directions

  1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Pat the veal chops dry and season both sides generously with the salt and pepper.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a large enameled cast-iron braiser or heavy ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Sear the veal chops in batches until deeply golden, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and reserve.
  3. Reduce the heat to medium and add the bacon or lardons to the same pan. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring, until the fat has rendered and the pieces are crisp at the edges.
  4. Add the mushrooms and pearl onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes until the mushrooms are well browned and the onions are tender and lightly caramelized. Stir in the garlic and cook for 30 seconds until fragrant.
  5. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir for 1 minute to coat. Pour in the white wine and scrape up all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan; simmer for 2 to 3 minutes to reduce slightly.
  6. Add the stock, thyme, and bay leaf and bring to a gentle simmer. Nestle the veal chops and any accumulated juices back into the pan, spooning some of the vegetables over the top.
  7. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and transfer to the oven. Braise for 35 to 40 minutes, turning the chops once halfway through, until the veal is fork-tender but still just slightly pink near the bone.
  8. Remove the pan from the oven and transfer the chops to a warm serving platter. Place the pan over medium heat and simmer the sauce for 3 to 4 minutes to thicken slightly, then discard the thyme stems and bay leaf.
  9. Whisk in the cold butter cubes off the heat to create a silky, glossy sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning, spoon the vegetables and sauce over the veal, and finish with a generous shower of chopped parsley.

Cook’s Notes

  • Bring the veal chops fully to room temperature before searing; cold meat will not brown properly and may cook unevenly in the braise.
  • Sear the chops in batches so the pan stays hot; overcrowding will steam the meat and prevent the deep golden crust that gives the dish its flavor.
  • For the best texture, do not overcook the veal; the meat should be just falling off the bone yet still slightly rosy at the center when sliced.
  • A heavy enameled cast-iron braiser distributes heat evenly and goes straight from stovetop to oven, making it the ideal pan for this dish.
  • Serve with buttery mashed potatoes, wide egg noodles, or a thick slice of toasted country bread to soak up the rich pan sauce.
DinnerSavoureux