Provençal Salt Cod Spread from Nîmes

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A creamy French classic from the city of Nîmes, this brandade melts salt cod with olive oil, milk, and potatoes into a silky emulsion. Served warm with toasted baguette and olives, it has anchored Provençal tables for centuries.

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

• 610 kcalCalories
• 52 gFat
• 11 gSaturated Fat
• 22 gCarbs
• 2 gFiber
• 3 gSugar
• 25 gProtein
• 780 mgSodium
• 720 mgPotassium
• 105 mgCalcium
• 1.5 mgIron
• 12 mgVitamin C
• 85 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For the salt cod and potatoes

• 1 lb (450 g) salt cod (salt-cured cod)
• Cold water, for soaking
• 1 lb (450 g) Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 cup (240 ml) whole milk, warmed

For the emulsion

• 3/4 cup (180 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy cream
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Pinch of ground nutmeg
• 1 tsp fresh lemon juice (optional)

For serving

• 1 baguette, sliced 1/2 inch thick and toasted
• 1/2 cup Niçoise or other small black olives
• 2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• Lemon wedges

Directions

1. Soak the salt cod in a large bowl of cold water for 24 to 48 hours, changing the water three or four times to draw out the salt. The fish should swell and feel pliable, with no harsh saltiness when tasted at the edge.
2. Drain the cod and place it in a saucepan with the bay leaf, then cover with fresh cold water and bring just to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Poach for 8 to 10 minutes, until the flesh flakes easily, then drain, cool slightly, and remove skin and any bones.
3. While the cod cooks, place the potatoes and garlic in a separate pot, cover with lightly salted cold water, and simmer for 15 minutes until very tender. Drain thoroughly and pass through a ricer or mash until completely smooth.
4. Flake the warm cod into a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer. Using a wooden spoon (or the paddle attachment on low speed), gradually stream in the olive oil in a thin, steady drizzle as you would when making a mayonnaise, so the mixture emulsifies into a fluffy purée.
5. Slowly pour in the warm milk and cream while continuing to beat, until the brandade turns pale, light, and spreadable. Season generously with black pepper and add a pinch of nutmeg; taste before salting, since the cod retains plenty of seasoning.
6. Fold in the lemon juice, if using, and beat once more until everything is glossy and uniform. Transfer to a warmed gratin dish or shallow serving bowl, drizzle with a thread of olive oil, and scatter parsley over the top.
7. Serve immediately while warm, surrounded by toasted baguette rounds, black olives, and lemon wedges for squeezing over each portion.

Cook’s Notes

• Always soak salt cod thoroughly for at least 24 hours, changing the water several times. Under-soaked cod will be unpleasantly salty.
• For a baked gratin, transfer the brandade to an oven dish, scatter breadcrumbs and a drizzle of olive oil over the top, then broil 2 to 3 inches from the heat until bubbling and golden.
• Use the best extra-virgin olive oil you can afford; it is the dominant flavor of the finished dish.
• Mixing by hand with a wooden spoon is traditional and gives you better control of the emulsion than a food processor, which can turn the cod gluey.
• Leftover brandade can be shaped into small patties, chilled until firm, and pan-fried in olive oil for crisp golden croquettes.

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