Italian Breadcrumb and Parmesan Noodles in Capon Broth

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A signature winter dish from Emilia-Romagna, passatelli are soft, rich noodles pressed from breadcrumbs, eggs, and Parmigiano-Reggiano, served floating in a clear, deeply savory capon broth. The noodles are tender and almost custardy inside, soaking up the golden broth with every spoonful. It is comfort food at its most elegant, traditionally served as a primo piatto during the holidays.

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

• 485 kcalCalories
• 22 gFat
• 8 gSaturated Fat
• 28 gCarbs
• 2 gFiber
• 3 gSugar
• 38 gProtein
• 980 mgSodium
• 520 mgPotassium
• 380 mgCalcium
• 4 mgIron
• 6 mgVitamin C
• 180 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For the capon broth

• 1 (3 1/2 to 4 lb) capon or whole chicken, giblets reserved
• 1 large yellow onion, halved and unpeeled
• 2 carrots, peeled and halved
• 2 celery stalks, halved
• 1 bay leaf
• 6 flat-leaf parsley stems
• 1 tsp whole black peppercorns
• 1 tbsp fine sea salt
• 4 quarts cold water

For the passatelli dough

• 1 1/2 cups (90 g) fine dried breadcrumbs, from a day-old country loaf
• 1 cup (90 g) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 3 large eggs, plus 1 large egg yolk
• 2 tbsp softened beef bone marrow (optional, traditional)
• 1 tsp finely grated lemon zest
• 1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
• 1/4 tsp freshly ground white pepper

To finish and serve

• 1/2 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
• Freshly ground black pepper, for serving
• A few gratings of nutmeg, for serving

Directions

1. Place the capon, giblets, onion, carrots, celery, bay leaf, parsley stems, and peppercorns in a large stockpot. Cover with the cold water and slowly bring to a bare simmer over medium-low heat, skimming any foam that rises during the first 20 minutes.
2. Once the broth is clear, add the salt, partially cover, and simmer very gently for about 2 1/2 to 3 hours, until the broth is golden and rich and the capon is falling off the bone. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot, discard the solids, and keep the broth at a low simmer.
3. While the broth cooks, make the passatelli dough: in a large bowl, stir together the breadcrumbs, Parmigiano, lemon zest, nutmeg, salt, and white pepper. Add the eggs, egg yolk, and bone marrow, then mix with a wooden spoon until a smooth, dense, slightly sticky paste forms. Cover and rest at room temperature for 15 minutes.
4. Test the consistency: the dough should hold together when pressed but not be wet or runny. If it is too soft, work in another tablespoon of breadcrumbs; if it is too stiff, beat in another yolk. Pack the dough into a passatelli iron, a large piping bag fitted with a 1/2-inch round tip, or a sturdy plastic syringe.
5. Bring the strained broth back to a gentle, steady simmer. Hold the passatelli iron or bag about 2 inches above the surface of the broth and press out the dough, cutting it into 2 1/2 to 3 inch lengths with a small knife as it emerges, so the noodles drop directly into the liquid.
6. Cook the passatelli for 2 to 3 minutes, until they rise to the surface and feel tender when pierced with a skewer. Do not boil hard, or the noodles may break apart.
7. Ladle 3 to 4 passatelli and a generous cup of hot broth into each warmed bowl. Finish with a shower of grated Parmigiano, a few grinds of black pepper, and a light grating of nutmeg. Serve immediately, with extra cheese at the table.

Cook’s Notes

• Use very fine, dry breadcrumbs grated from a 2 to 3 day old country loaf; panko will give a gritty, less tender noodle.
• If you do not have a passatelli iron, a potato ricer or a meat grinder fitted with a large die will produce similar thick strands.
• Bone marrow is optional but traditional, and it gives the noodles a silky, almost custardy richness; rendered pancetta drippings can be used in a pinch.
• Skim the broth patiently during the first half hour so it stays clear and golden rather than cloudy.
• Passatelli do not hold well after cooking; press them into the broth only as you are ready to serve, and eat them within minutes of poaching.

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