Turkish Black Sea Anchovy Rice Pilaf

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A signature dish from Turkey's Black Sea coast, butterflied fresh anchovies are wrapped around a fragrant rice filling studded with pine nuts, currants, and warm spices, then baked together until the rice absorbs all the savory juices. Best served at room temperature with a wedge of lemon, this elegant pilaf showcases the prized local hamsi.

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

• 480 kcalCalories
• 22 gFat
• 6 gSaturated Fat
• 38 gCarbs
• 2 gFiber
• 5 gSugar
• 30 gProtein
• 510 mgSodium
• 560 mgPotassium
• 95 mgCalcium
• 4 mgIron
• 9 mgVitamin C
• 130 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For the anchovies

• 1 kg (2.2 lb) very fresh anchovies (hamsi), heads removed
• 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for greasing the dish
• 1 lemon, cut into wedges, for serving

For the rice filling

• 1 cup short-grain or medium-grain rice, rinsed and drained
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons pine nuts
• 2 tablespoons currants
• 1 teaspoon sugar, 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon allspice
• 1/2 cup hot fish stock or water
• 1/4 cup chopped parsley plus 2 tablespoons chopped dill

Directions

1. Prepare the anchovies: rinse them under cold water, pat dry, and butterfly each fish by carefully running your thumb along the backbone to lift it out, leaving the two fillets attached along the belly. Season the opened fish inside and out with the salt and pepper.
2. Make the rice filling: melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat, add the onion and cook until soft, about 4 minutes. Stir in the pine nuts and toast for 1 minute, then add the rinsed rice and stir to coat for another 2 minutes.
3. Add the currants, sugar, cinnamon, allspice, and hot stock; bring to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook for about 8 minutes until the rice is partially cooked but still firm in the center. Remove from heat, stir in the parsley and dill, and let cool slightly.
4. Lay each butterflied anchovy flat with the inside facing up. Spoon about 1 tablespoon of the rice mixture onto one half of the fish, then fold the empty half over to enclose the filling, leaving the tail exposed to form a half-moon shape.
5. Drizzle the bottom of a round 9-inch baking dish with olive oil. Arrange the stuffed fish tail-side out in tightly packed concentric circles, snug against one another so they hold their shape during baking.
6. Drizzle the arranged pilaf with 3 tablespoons olive oil and cover the dish tightly with foil. Bake at 180°C (350°F) for 25 minutes.
7. Remove the foil and continue baking for 15 to 20 minutes more until the rice is fully tender, the surface is lightly golden, and the fish flakes easily. For a deeper color, run under the broiler for 2 to 3 minutes.
8. Let the dish rest for 10 minutes to set, then place a serving platter over the pan and carefully invert to unmold the pilaf, revealing a domed rice center ringed by the anchovies.
9. Garnish with extra parsley and serve warm or at room temperature with lemon wedges for squeezing over each portion.

Cook’s Notes

• Use only the freshest possible anchovies – hamsi season on the Black Sea runs from late autumn through winter – and keep them well chilled until you are ready to clean them.
• If fresh anchovies are unavailable, fresh sardines or small mackerel can be butterflied and prepared the same way.
• The rice must be only par-cooked before stuffing; it will finish cooking and absorb all the fish juices during baking, so do not fully cook it on the stovetop.
• Allergen note: this dish contains fish (anchovies) and tree nuts (pine nuts).
• Hamsili Pilav is traditionally paired with a glass of çay (black tea) and is just as enjoyable cold from the refrigerator the next day.

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