Earth oven cooking is the soul of Papua New Guinea's highlands, where pork and root vegetables are slow-roasted on heated stones beneath a mound of earth for hours. This classic highland mumu-style feast combines tender pork shoulder with sweet potato, taro, yam, and green bananas wrapped in banana leaves, all infused with earthy smoke and gentle steam. The result is fall-apart meat and naturally sweet vegetables that need almost no seasoning.
Nutrition Facts
Per serving (estimated)
- 620 kcalCalories
- 25 gFat
- 9 gSaturated Fat
- 52 gCarbs
- 7 gFiber
- 8 gSugar
- 36 gProtein
- 360 mgSodium
- 1250 mgPotassium
- 110 mgCalcium
- 4.2 mgIron
- 32 mgVitamin C
- 380 mcgVitamin A
Ingredients
For the Pork and Aromatics
- 2.5 lbs pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch chunks
- 1 large yellow onion, thickly sliced
- 5 garlic cloves, smashed
- 1 inch fresh ginger, thinly sliced
- 1 tablespoon sea salt
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons neutral oil
For the Root Vegetables and Banana
- 1.5 lbs sweet potato (kumara), scrubbed
- 1 lb taro root, peeled and halved
- 1 lb yam, peeled and cut into chunks
- 4 green cooking bananas, peeled and halved lengthwise
For Wrapping and Greens
- 1 large bunch aibika or pumpkin leaves (about 8 oz)
- 8 to 10 large banana leaves, briefly passed over an open flame
- 1 cup water or coconut water
Directions
- Prepare the cooking pit or Dutch oven. Dig a pit about 2 feet deep and 3 feet wide, or line a large heavy Dutch oven with banana leaves. Heat a layer of clean river stones in the pit, or preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C), for 45 minutes until the stones are thoroughly hot.
- Season the pork chunks with salt, pepper, smashed garlic, ginger, and oil, massaging the aromatics into the meat. Let stand 20 minutes while the stones heat.
- Line the bottom and sides of the pit or Dutch oven with banana leaves, leaving plenty of overhang so the leaves can be folded to wrap the food completely.
- Place the seasoned pork in the center and arrange the sweet potato, taro, yam, and green bananas around it in concentric layers. Scatter the sliced onion evenly over the top.
- Pour the water or coconut water over everything, lay the bunch of greens across the top, then fold the overhanging banana leaves over to seal the bundle into a closed parcel.
- For pit cooking: pile the hot stones on top of the leaf parcel, cover with damp sacks or grass, then seal with 4 to 6 inches of soil. For oven adaptation: cover the Dutch oven tightly with its lid or foil, reduce heat to 325°F (160°C), and cook undisturbed for 3 hours.
- Carefully remove the soil, sacks, and stones, or lift the lid, and let the bundle rest 10 minutes before peeling back the banana leaves; the pork should be fall-apart tender and the vegetables silky.
- Transfer the pork and vegetables to a warm platter, tear the steamed greens over the top, and spoon the rich pan juices over everything. Serve family-style, eaten with hands or flatbread.
Cook’s Notes
- If aibika or pumpkin leaves are unavailable, use collard greens, chard, or even kale for a similar earthy steamed effect.
- A heavy Dutch oven lined with banana leaves is the easiest home adaptation and captures the gentle steam-roasting of a true pit mumu.
- Substitute unripe plantains for green cooking bananas if needed; ripe bananas will turn to mush.
- Save the pan juices; they make a richly flavored base for a quick soup or sauce the next day.
- Wear kitchen gloves when handling taro and yam if your skin is sensitive, as they can cause mild irritation.










