Basque-Style Hake Cheeks in Silky Green Sauce

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Kokotxas are the prized, gelatinous cheeks of hake, simmered gently in a vibrant Basque salsa verde of olive oil, garlic, parsley, and crisp white wine. This celebrated San Sebastián tapa showcases the silky, almost custard-like texture of the cheeks against a punchy herb sauce, traditionally served with crusty bread to mop up every drop.

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

• 310 kcalCalories
• 18 gFat
• 3 gSaturated Fat
• 4 gCarbs
• 0 gFiber
• 1 gSugar
• 28 gProtein
• 420 mgSodium
• 480 mgPotassium
• 50 mgCalcium
• 1.5 mgIron
• 6 mgVitamin C
• 120 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For the Hake Cheeks

• 1 lb (450 g) fresh hake cheeks (kokotxas), cleaned
• 1/4 tsp fine sea salt
• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, for finishing

For the Green Sauce

• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1 small dried guindilla or ñora chili (optional)
• 1 tsp all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) dry white wine, such as Txakoli or Sauvignon Blanc
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) fish stock or light clam juice
• 3 tbsp finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• Pinch of sea salt

Directions

1. If the cheeks still carry any thin silvery membrane or small cartilage, peel it away carefully, rinse under cold water, and pat very dry with paper towels; season lightly with the 1/4 teaspoon salt.
2. Warm the 4 tablespoons of olive oil in a wide earthenware cazuela or stainless-steel skillet over low-medium heat. Add the sliced garlic and the optional chili and cook gently for 3-4 minutes until the garlic turns pale gold, taking care not to brown it.
3. Sprinkle in the flour and stir for 30 seconds to cook out the raw taste, then pour in the white wine. Raise the heat to medium and simmer until reduced by about half, roughly 3 minutes.
4. Pour in the fish stock and simmer another 3 minutes to concentrate the flavors, then taste and adjust with a pinch of salt. The sauce should be loose but not watery.
5. Pat the cheeks dry again and arrange them in a single layer in the gently simmering sauce, ensuring each piece is mostly submerged. Spoon a little sauce over each cheek.
6. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting and poach the cheeks gently for 4-5 minutes, basting occasionally, until they turn opaque and feel just firm yet still silky to the touch. Do not let the sauce boil.
7. Stir the chopped parsley into the sauce, remove from the heat, and let the cheeks rest for 1 minute to soak up the flavors.
8. Finish by drizzling the remaining 1 tablespoon of raw olive oil over the top. Serve immediately in shallow bowls with crusty bread or boiled new potatoes to soak up the sauce.
9. Discard the optional chili before serving if desired.

Cook’s Notes

• Fresh kokotxas have a unique silky, gelatinous texture; overcooking turns them rubbery, so pull them off the heat the moment they turn opaque.
• If hake cheeks are unavailable, this technique works beautifully with cod cheeks or small monkfish medallions.
• Txakoli is the traditional Basque pairing, but any crisp dry white wine avoids competing with the delicate fish.
• Keep the sauce on the loose side — it should coat the back of a spoon but still flow; reduce further with a splash more stock if it tightens too much.
• Serve with toasted sourdough, boiled baby potatoes, or simply white rice so nothing of the precious sauce goes to waste.

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