Malagasy Smoky Toasted Rice Drink

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This traditional Malagasy beverage captures the resourceful spirit of island cooking, where nothing flavorful goes to waste. Made by simmering toasted rice in water and straining out the grains, it yields a nutty, slightly smoky water with a pale, milky hue. Served chilled, it is a beloved everyday refresher across Madagascar, often enjoyed with meals or as a cooling afternoon treat.

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

• 75 kcalCalories
• 0.3 gFat
• 0 gSaturated Fat
• 17 gCarbs
• 0 gFiber
• 8 gSugar
• 1 gProtein
• 55 mgSodium
• 35 mgPotassium
• 10 mgCalcium
• 0.3 mgIron
• 0 mgVitamin C
• 0 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For toasting the rice

• 1 cup long-grain white rice (rinsed and thoroughly dried)
• 1/2 teaspoon neutral oil (optional, for even browning)

For the rice water

• 6 cups filtered water
• 2 to 3 tablespoons granulated sugar, to taste
• 1 wide strip lemon peel (optional)
• 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

Directions

1. Place the dried rice in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Toast, stirring or shaking the pan almost constantly, until the grains turn a deep golden brown and smell richly nutty, about 8 to 10 minutes. Watch closely so they do not scorch to black.
2. Transfer the toasted rice to a medium saucepan and pour in the 6 cups of water. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low so the liquid simmers gently.
3. Let the mixture simmer uncovered for 12 to 15 minutes, allowing the starchy, smoky notes to leach into the water. The liquid should become cloudy and pale beige, and the grains will look swollen and soft.
4. Stir in the sugar and salt until fully dissolved. Drop in the lemon peel if using, simmer 2 more minutes, then fish out and discard the peel.
5. Remove the pan from the heat and let it cool for 5 minutes. Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth into a large pitcher, pressing gently on the rice to release the milky liquid.
6. Discard the spent rice (or reserve it for a porridge or bread addition). Transfer the strained drink to a glass jar or bottle and let it cool to room temperature.
7. Refrigerate the drink for at least 2 hours, until thoroughly chilled. The flavor rounds out and deepens as it rests.
8. Pour into tall glasses and serve cold, over ice if desired. Garnish each glass with a thin lemon wheel if you like.
9. Store any leftovers in a sealed jar in the refrigerator for up to 3 days; shake or stir before serving, as some starch may settle at the bottom.

Cook’s Notes

• For a stronger smoky character, push the toast to a deep chestnut brown, but stop well before the grains turn black, which would make the drink bitter.
• Use day-old cooked rice that has been spread out to dry, then toasted, for a slightly rounder, less sharp flavor.
• Adjust the sugar to your taste, or skip it entirely for the unsweetened, more traditional preparation that lets the toasted rice flavor shine.
• In Madagascar's cooler highlands, ranon apango is sometimes served warm rather than chilled and sipped after heavy meals as a gentle digestive.
• A pinch of ground ginger or a bruised cardamom pod added during the simmer gives a warming variation popular during the cooler season.

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