A rich and deeply flavored Nigerian soup from Ondo State built around ground melon seeds, palm oil, assorted meats, and tender pumpkin leaves. The Ondo version leans on a generous mix of smoked fish and beef cuts for a hearty, oily stew traditionally eaten with pounded yam or eba. Each spoonful carries the nutty depth of toasted melon seeds balanced by the grassy brightness of ugu leaves.
Prep Time20 mins
Cook Time45 mins
Total Time65 mins
Servings6
Yield6 servings
Nutrition Facts
Per serving (estimated)
- 485 kcalCalories
- 32 gFat
- 9 gSaturated Fat
- 11 gCarbs
- 4 gFiber
- 3 gSugar
- 32 gProtein
- 820 mgSodium
- 640 mgPotassium
- 85 mgCalcium
- 4.2 mgIron
- 18 mgVitamin C
- 95 mcgVitamin A
Ingredients
For the proteins
- 500 g assorted meats (beef, tripe, and cow foot, cut into chunks)
- 2 smoked mackerel fillets (about 150 g)
- 1 small dried catfish (about 80 g, cleaned)
- 60 g stockfish (pre-soaked and flaked)
- 1 medium onion (quartered, for boiling the meats)
- 1 tablespoon salt (for parboiling)
For the melon seed base
- 1.5 cups ground melon seeds (egusi)
- 150 ml palm oil
- 1 medium red bell pepper (roughly chopped)
- 3 Scotch bonnet peppers (ata rodo)
- 1 large onion (chopped)
- 3 cloves garlic
For the seasonings and aromatics
- 2 tablespoons ground crayfish
- 2 tablespoons locust beans (iru/dawadawa)
- 2 stock cubes (knorr or maggi)
- 1 teaspoon dried thyme
- Salt to taste
- 3 cups warm meat stock (from parboiling)
For the greens
- 3 cups fresh ugu leaves (pumpkin leaves, washed and shredded)
- 1 small bunch scent leaves (efinrin, optional, chopped)
Directions
- Parboil the assorted meats with the quartered onion, salt, and thyme in a large pot for 25 to 30 minutes until tender. Reserve the cooking stock and keep the meats aside. Shred the smoked fish, dried catfish, and stockfish into bite-sized pieces.
- Blend the red bell pepper, Scotch bonnet peppers, chopped onion, and garlic to a coarse, thick paste. Set aside.
- Heat the palm oil in a heavy pot over medium heat until it melts and looks clear. Add the ground melon seeds and stir continuously for 5 to 7 minutes, toasting them in the oil until fragrant and slightly darker; this step builds the nutty flavor characteristic of the Ondo style.
- Stir in the pepper-onion paste and fry for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often, until the oil begins to separate and the mixture thickens. Add the locust beans and ground crayfish, cooking another minute.
- Pour in the warm meat stock, add the parboiled meats, stock cubes, and additional salt. Stir well and bring to a gentle boil, then reduce heat and simmer uncovered for 12 to 15 minutes so the egusi sets into a thick, stew-like consistency. Skim off excess oil if you prefer, though Ondo cooks typically leave it generous.
- Add the shredded smoked fish, dried catfish, and stockfish, stirring gently so they do not break apart. Simmer 4 more minutes so the fish absorb the broth.
- Stir in the shredded ugu leaves and scent leaves, pressing them down until just wilted. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes only so the leaves stay bright and tender rather than slimy.
- Taste and adjust salt and pepper, then turn off the heat. Let the soup rest covered for 5 minutes before serving hot with pounded yam, eba, amala, or boiled plantain.
Cook’s Notes
- Always toast the ground melon seeds in hot palm oil before adding liquid – this deepens the nutty flavor and prevents a raw, bitter taste.
- Ondo cooks traditionally use very generous palm oil; if you prefer less oil, start with 100 ml and increase to taste.
- Ugu leaves should only be added at the very end and cooked briefly to keep their grassy color and avoid a slimy texture that long cooking produces.
- For a richer soup, add 100 g of ground dried shrimp along with the crayfish – it amplifies the umami of the seafood layer.
- If locust beans are unavailable, substitute with 1 tablespoon of fermented soybeans (dawadawa) or skip for a milder flavor.
- The soup tastes even better the next day once the fish and egusi have fully married with the palm oil; reheat with a splash of stock.










