A signature dish from Bali, Indonesia, this slow-roasted chicken is generously stuffed with a fragrant spice paste called base genep, then wrapped in banana leaves and roasted until incredibly tender and aromatic. The traditional method takes many hours; this home-friendly version delivers the same deep, complex flavors in a fraction of the time.
Prep Time30 mins
Cook Time150 mins
Total Time180 mins
Servings4
Yield4 servings
Nutrition Facts
Per serving (estimated)
- 580 kcalCalories
- 32 gFat
- 9 gSaturated Fat
- 18 gCarbs
- 3 gFiber
- 6 gSugar
- 52 gProtein
- 720 mgSodium
- 850 mgPotassium
- 110 mgCalcium
- 4.5 mgIron
- 18 mgVitamin C
- 85 mcgVitamin A
Ingredients
For the Aromatic Spice Paste
- 8 medium shallots, peeled and roughly chopped
- 6 garlic cloves, smashed
- 2 inch fresh galangal, sliced
- 2 inch fresh ginger, sliced
- 2 inch fresh turmeric, peeled and sliced
- 2 lemongrass stalks, white parts only, sliced
- 6 large red chilies, seeded and chopped
- 4 candlenuts, roughly chopped
For the Spices and Seasonings
- 2 tbsp coriander seeds
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 1 tsp shrimp paste (terasi), toasted
- 1 tbsp grated palm sugar
- 2 tbsp coconut oil
- 1 tbsp tamarind paste
- 1 tsp salt
For the Chicken and Wrapping
- 1 whole chicken, about 3.5 lb, cleaned
- 1 cup coconut water
- 6 kaffir lime leaves, torn
- 2 tbsp lime juice
- 4 large banana leaves, softened over a flame
- 2 tbsp melted coconut oil for brushing
Directions
- Make the spice paste: dry-toast coriander and cumin seeds in a small pan over medium heat for 1 minute until fragrant, then grind to a powder in a mortar or spice grinder.
- Combine the toasted spices with shallots, garlic, galangal, ginger, turmeric, lemongrass, chilies, candlenuts, shrimp paste, palm sugar, coconut oil, tamarind, and salt in a food processor. Blend, scraping down the sides, until a smooth, thick paste forms, adding a splash of water if needed.
- Stuff the chicken cavity with torn kaffir lime leaves and rub the entire bird inside and out with the spice paste, massaging it under the skin where possible. Place in a snug bowl, pour coconut water and lime juice over, cover, and marinate for at least 1 hour or up to overnight in the fridge.
- Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Line a large roasting pan with two banana leaves in a cross pattern, leaving overhang on all sides. Place the marinated chicken on top, breast-side up, and spoon any remaining marinade over it.
- Fold the banana leaves tightly over the chicken to form a sealed parcel, then cover the entire pan tightly with a double layer of foil to lock in steam. Roast for 2 hours 30 minutes, until the chicken is fall-off-the-bone tender and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thigh reads 175°F (80°C).
- Carefully unwrap the banana leaf and increase oven temperature to 425°F (220°C). Brush the chicken with melted coconut oil and roast uncovered for 12 to 15 minutes until the skin turns golden and slightly crisp.
- Let the chicken rest in the open banana leaf for 10 minutes, then carve into pieces and serve with steamed rice, sambal matah, and lawar vegetables for a traditional Balinese spread.
Cook’s Notes
- Traditional Balinese cooks use a whole duck or free-range village chicken and slow-cook the parcel buried in hot rice husks for 8 to 12 hours; this oven method captures the same essence in far less time.
- If banana leaves are unavailable, use parchment paper plus a tight double layer of foil, though you will lose some of the subtle grassy aroma.
- For extra smoky depth, briefly char the unwrapped chicken over a charcoal grill or kitchen torch for 2 minutes before serving.
- Reduce the chilies to 2 or 3 for a milder, family-friendly version, or substitute with 1 tablespoon of chili flakes.
- Leftover spice paste keeps in the fridge for 5 days and is excellent stirred into fried rice or used as a marinade for grilled fish.










