A fiery, aromatic grilled chicken from the island of Lombok in eastern Indonesia, this Sasak specialty is butterflied and slathered with a coarse paste of fresh chilies, aromatic ginger, candlenuts, and shrimp paste before being charred over hot coals. The smoke and spice combine into a deeply savory, eye-watering dish traditionally served with steamed rice and a side of blistered greens.
Prep Time25 mins
Cook Time35 mins
Total Time60 mins
Servings4
Yield4 servings
Nutrition Facts
Per serving (estimated)
- 560 kcalCalories
- 28 gFat
- 11 gSaturated Fat
- 38 gCarbs
- 3 gFiber
- 4 gSugar
- 42 gProtein
- 740 mgSodium
- 780 mgPotassium
- 95 mgCalcium
- 3.5 mgIron
- 38 mgVitamin C
- 220 mcgVitamin A
Ingredients
For the chicken
- 1 whole young chicken (about 1.2 kg / 2.5 lb), butterflied and backbone removed
- 1 tablespoon lime juice
- 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 1 tablespoon coconut oil, melted
For the Lombok spice paste (base genep)
- 8 large red chilies, seeded and roughly chopped
- 6 bird's eye chilies, trimmed
- 6 shallots, peeled
- 4 garlic cloves, peeled
- 2 candlenuts, toasted until fragrant
- 1 teaspoon shrimp paste (terasi), wrapped and toasted
- 1 inch fresh kencur (aromatic ginger), peeled
- 1 inch fresh ginger, peeled
- 1 inch fresh turmeric, peeled (or 1 teaspoon ground turmeric)
- 1 teaspoon palm sugar, grated
- 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 3 tablespoons coconut oil, plus more for brushing
To serve
- 4 cups steamed jasmine rice
- 1 lime, cut into wedges
- Crispy fried shallots, for garnish
Directions
- Prepare the chicken: pat the butterflied chicken dry, rub all over with lime juice, salt, and melted coconut oil. Let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes while you make the paste.
- Make the spice paste: combine the red chilies, bird's eye chilies, shallots, garlic, candlenuts, toasted shrimp paste, kencur, ginger, turmeric, palm sugar, and salt in a food processor. Pulse to a coarse, slightly wet paste, then work in the 3 tablespoons coconut oil until incorporated. Set aside 1/3 cup of the paste for basting; the remainder will coat the chicken.
- Preheat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high heat (around 200°C / 400°F). If using a charcoal grill, let the coals burn until they are covered with a thin layer of white ash.
- Place the chicken skin-side down on the grill and cook for 10 minutes, flipping halfway, until lightly charred and nearly cooked through. Move to a cooler part of the grill if the skin begins to flare.
- Brush the chicken generously with the larger portion of spice paste, working it into every crevice and under the skin where possible. Reserve the 1/3 cup of paste for basting during the final minutes.
- Continue grilling the chicken, turning every 2-3 minutes and basting with the reserved paste, for another 10-15 minutes until the paste is dark, smoky, and slightly crusty, and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 82°C / 180°F.
- Transfer the chicken to a cutting board, loosely tent with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes to allow the juices to redistribute.
- Cut the chicken into serving pieces with a cleaver or sharp knife, pile onto a platter, spoon any pooled juices over the top, and garnish with crispy fried shallots and lime wedges. Serve immediately with steamed jasmine rice.
Cook’s Notes
- Authentic Taliwang uses a young free-range chicken (ayam kampung) weighing about 1 kg; the smaller bird absorbs the paste faster and stays juicier on the grill.
- Control the heat carefully by adjusting the number of chilies—traditional versions are extremely spicy, so start with fewer bird's eye chilies if you are sensitive to heat.
- If you do not have a grill, sear the chicken in a cast-iron skillet over high heat and finish in a 200°C oven for 12 minutes, brushing with paste in the last 5 minutes.
- Candlenuts can be substituted with an equal amount of raw macadamia nuts or blanched almonds for a similar creamy texture.
- For an authentic Lombok meal, serve alongside plecing kangkung (water spinach in tomato-chili sauce) and a simple cucumber salad to balance the heat.










