Nîmes-Style Salt Cod Brandade

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This silky Provençal classic from the sun-baked city of Nîmes transforms humble salt cod into a rich, garlicky spread whipped with golden olive oil and warm milk. Traditionally served as a starter with crusty bread and a scattering of brine-cured black olives, it captures the soul of southern French cooking in every creamy bite.

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

• 465 kcalCalories
• 29 gFat
• 6 gSaturated Fat
• 22 gCarbs
• 2 gFiber
• 3 gSugar
• 28 gProtein
• 1480 mgSodium
• 720 mgPotassium
• 155 mgCalcium
• 2 mgIron
• 9 mgVitamin C
• 85 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For the salt cod

• 1 lb (450 g) skinless salt cod (morue)
• 2 cups whole milk
• 2 cups water
• 1 small bay leaf
• 3 black peppercorns

For the brandade

• 2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes (about 8 oz), peeled and cubed
• 6 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
• 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
• 1/2 cup warm whole milk
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

For serving

• 1/2 cup pitted Niçoise or other brine-cured black olives
• 2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 crusty baguette, sliced and toasted
• Lemon wedges, for squeezing

Directions

1. Desalt the cod by soaking it in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, changing the water 3 to 4 times. Pat dry and cut into 2-inch pieces, checking carefully for any remaining bones.
2. Combine the milk, water, bay leaf, peppercorns, and cod in a medium saucepan. Bring just to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat and poach for 8 to 10 minutes, until the cod flakes easily but does not fall apart. Lift the cod out, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid, and discard the aromatics.
3. Meanwhile, place the potatoes and garlic in a small pot, cover with cold salted water, and simmer for 12 to 15 minutes until very tender. Drain well and pass through a ricer or food mill into a large bowl.
4. Flake the warm cod into the bowl with the potatoes and mash together with a fork. Gradually drizzle in the olive oil while mashing vigorously, then alternate splashes of warm milk and the reserved cooking liquid until the mixture is smooth, pale, and holds soft peaks when lifted. Season with pepper and nutmeg.
5. Spoon the brandade into a warm serving dish, using a spoon to create soft swirls. Drizzle generously with olive oil and scatter the black olives and parsley over the top.
6. Serve immediately with hot toasted baguette slices and lemon wedges for squeezing over each portion.

Cook’s Notes

• Do not let the milk boil when poaching the cod; gentle heat keeps the flakes tender and prevents the milk from breaking.
• For a looser, more spoonable brandade, add extra warm milk a tablespoon at a time at the end; for a firmer spread, hold back on the liquid.
• Traditionalists skip the potatoes entirely and whip only cod, garlic, oil, and milk for a purer texture; the potatoes simply add a softer, more velvety body.
• Taste before adding any salt, as the desalted cod and olives often provide enough salinity on their own.
• Leftover brandade keeps covered in the refrigerator for 2 days; reheat gently with a splash of milk to restore its creamy consistency.

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