Buckwheat Pasta with Savoy Cabbage, Potatoes, and Brown Butter-Sage Sauce

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A hearty Lombard classic from the alpine Valtellina valley, this rustic dish combines ribbon-shaped buckwheat pasta with tender cabbage and potatoes, all bound together with nutty brown butter, garlic, sage, and aged mountain cheese. It's the kind of warming, stick-to-your-ribs pasta that defines northern Italian home cooking in winter.

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

• 620 kcalCalories
• 28 gFat
• 17 gSaturated Fat
• 72 gCarbs
• 8 gFiber
• 4 gSugar
• 22 gProtein
• 480 mgSodium
• 850 mgPotassium
• 280 mgCalcium
• 3 mgIron
• 45 mgVitamin C
• 180 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For the pasta and vegetables

• 14 oz (400 g) fresh pizzoccheri pasta (or buckwheat tagliatelle)
• 1 small head savoy cabbage (about 1 lb / 450 g), cored and cut into 1-inch ribbons
• 1 lb (450 g) Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes
• 1 tablespoon coarse sea salt, plus more for finishing

For the brown butter sauce and finishing

• 6 tablespoons (85 g) unsalted butter
• 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 10 fresh sage leaves
• 1 1/4 cups (about 110 g) grated Valtellina Casera, Bitto, or a mix of Fontina and Parmigiano-Reggiano
• Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

Directions

1. Bring a large, wide pot of water to a rolling boil, add 1 tablespoon of coarse salt, then drop in the cubed potatoes and cook for 5 minutes until just beginning to soften.
2. Add the savoy cabbage ribbons to the pot and cook for another 5 minutes, then add the pizzoccheri pasta and stir gently to keep the strands from sticking together; cook for 10 to 12 minutes until the pasta is al dente and the potatoes are fork-tender.
3. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium-low heat, add the sliced garlic and sage leaves, and cook slowly for 4 to 5 minutes until the butter turns deep golden brown and smells nutty; remove from heat so it doesn't burn.
4. Reserve about 1/2 cup of the starchy cooking water, then drain the pasta, cabbage, and potatoes together in a colander, shaking off excess moisture.
5. In a warmed large serving bowl, spoon a layer of the pasta mixture, drizzle generously with the brown butter and scatter a handful of the grated cheese over the top.
6. Add another layer of pasta, more brown butter, and more cheese, repeating until everything is used and ending with a final snowfall of cheese and a few cranks of black pepper.
7. If the dish looks a little dry, splash in a tablespoon or two of the reserved cooking water and toss very gently just before serving; bring the bowl straight to the table and serve immediately while piping hot.
8. Pair with a crisp Alpine white wine such as a Chiavennasca or Pinot Grigio and a simple green salad dressed with lemon and olive oil.

Cook’s Notes

• Pizzoccheri pasta is traditionally about 80% buckwheat and 20% wheat flour; if unavailable, fresh buckwheat tagliatelle or even a 50/50 mix of whole-wheat and all-purpose flour ribbons will work in a pinch.
• The classic Valtellina cheese is a blend of young Bitto and aged Valtellina Casera; substituting with Fontina plus Parmigiano-Reggiano gives a very similar melty-yet-nutty character.
• Brown the butter slowly over medium-low heat, watching closely; once the milk solids turn deep tan and smell toasty, pull it off the burner or it can scorch in seconds.
• Reserve a little pasta water before draining; the starchy water helps loosen the layers and gives the finished dish a glossy, clingy texture.
• Serve the pasta straight away in a warmed bowl so the cheese melts into long, silky strands and the butter stays liquid rather than seizing on cool pasta.

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