Vicenza-Style Salt Cod Stew

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A centuries-old specialty from the Veneto city of Vicenza, this slow-simmered salt cod is braised with sweet onions, milk, anchovies, and Parmigiano until it melts into a velvety, savory stew. Traditionally ladled over creamy yellow polenta, it's pure Northern Italian comfort.

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

• 480 kcalCalories
• 25 gFat
• 7 gSaturated Fat
• 15 gCarbs
• 2 gFiber
• 8 gSugar
• 45 gProtein
• 2380 mgSodium
• 820 mgPotassium
• 340 mgCalcium
• 3 mgIron
• 8 mgVitamin C
• 160 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For the salt cod

• 2 lbs (about 900 g) skin-on salt cod (baccalà), soaked
• 1/4 cup (30 g) all-purpose flour, for dusting

For the braise

• 1/2 cup (120 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 large yellow onions (about 400 g), very thinly sliced
• 4 to 6 oil-packed anchovy fillets
• 2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
• 2 cups (480 ml) whole milk
• 1/3 cup (35 g) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 1 small handful flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• Pinch of freshly ground white pepper

To serve

• 4 cups creamy warm polenta, for serving

Directions

1. Soak the salt cod in a large bowl of cold water for 24 to 36 hours, changing the water 4 to 5 times to remove excess salt. Drain and pat very dry with paper towels.
2. Pull off and discard the skin and any pin bones, then cut the flesh into roughly 2-inch chunks. Lightly dust each piece with flour and shake off the excess.
3. In a wide, heavy-bottomed earthenware or enameled pan, warm the olive oil over the lowest possible heat. Add the onions and cook gently for 35 to 40 minutes, stirring often, until they are completely soft, sweet, and translucent but not browned.
4. Stir in the anchovy fillets and garlic and cook 2 to 3 minutes more, mashing the anchovies until they dissolve into the onions.
5. Nestle the floured cod pieces into the pan in a single layer. Pour in the milk, bring to a bare shiver of a simmer, and cook uncovered for 25 to 30 minutes, turning the cod gently once or twice, until the fish flakes easily and the milk has reduced to a creamy, spoon-coating sauce.
6. Stir in the Parmigiano, parsley, and white pepper. Taste carefully before adding any salt; the cod and anchovies are typically salty enough.
7. Let the stew rest off the heat for 5 minutes so the sauce sets to a silky consistency, then ladle generously over warm creamy polenta.

Cook’s Notes

• Use stoccafisso (air-dried cod) instead of baccalà (salt cod) for the most traditional Vicenza-style result, but extend soaking to 48 hours and skip the salt check.
• Never let the milk boil or the onions brown; both should cook at the gentlest simmer to keep the sauce pale, sweet, and silky.
• Authentically, the stew is stirred with a wooden spoon only in one direction, never vigorously, to keep the cod in tender flakes.
• Save any leftover sauce to toss with short pasta the next day for a quick second meal.
• If the sauce tightens on standing, loosen with a splash of warm milk before serving.

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