Smoked Sprats Latvian-Style

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These small Baltic herring are lightly brined, cold-smoked over alder wood, and preserved in spiced sunflower oil the way Latvian coastal canneries have done for generations. Served cold on dense rye bread with a wedge of lemon, they are an iconic Russian appetizer alongside ice-cold vodka.

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (estimated)

• 380 kcalCalories
• 32 gFat
• 5 gSaturated Fat
• 1 gCarbs
• 0 gFiber
• 0 gSugar
• 22 gProtein
• 720 mgSodium
• 320 mgPotassium
• 80 mgCalcium
• 1.5 mgIron
• 1 mgVitamin C
• 30 mcgVitamin A

Ingredients

For the fish and brine

• 1 kg fresh Baltic sprats or small herring, heads optional
• 3 tbsp coarse sea salt
• 1 tsp granulated sugar
• 2 dried bay leaves
• 1 tsp whole black peppercorns
• 1/2 tsp whole allspice berries

For smoking

• 2 cups alder or oak wood chips, soaked 30 minutes
• 1 tsp ground coriander (optional)
• 2 tbsp coarse salt for the smoker tray

For the spiced preserving oil

• 1 cup cold-pressed sunflower or light olive oil
• 1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
• 4 whole black peppercorns
• 2 dried bay leaves
• 1 small allspice berry

For serving

• 1 loaf dense dark rye bread, sliced
• 1 lemon, cut into wedges
• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
• 2 tbsp chopped fresh dill
• 2 small pickled cucumbers, sliced

Directions

1. Rinse the sprats under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Leave whole if small, or remove heads while keeping tails intact for the traditional presentation.
2. In a small bowl, mix the coarse salt, sugar, bay leaves, peppercorns, and allspice. Arrange the fish in a single layer in a glass dish, scatter the salt mixture over and between them, cover, and refrigerate for 4 to 8 hours.
3. Rinse the brined fish briefly under cold water and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Place on a wire rack set over a baking sheet and refrigerate uncovered for 2 to 3 hours until the skin feels tacky and forms a pellicle; this is essential for smoke to adhere.
4. Set up a stovetop smoker, kettle grill, or covered wok fitted with a rack. Drain the soaked wood chips and place them in the smoker tray or a foil packet punched with holes; position the rack and arrange the fish in a single layer.
5. Smoke at 80 to 90 degrees C (175 to 195 degrees F) for 35 to 45 minutes, keeping the lid closed and vents open. The fish should turn glossy amber and feel firm but still slightly translucent near the spine; they should not cook through like hot-smoked salmon.
6. Meanwhile, warm the oil in a small saucepan with the onion, peppercorns, bay leaves, and allspice over very low heat for 10 minutes, then remove from heat and cool completely to room temperature.
7. Pack the still-warm smoked sprats snugly into clean glass jars, standing them in neat rows. Strain the cooled oil and pour it over the fish until each piece is submerged by at least 1 cm.
8. Seal the jars and refrigerate for at least 24 hours before opening so the flavors can settle and the flesh can firm up. Properly covered in oil, they will keep refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
9. To serve, lift the sprats from the oil, arrange on slices of dark rye bread, and garnish with red onion, dill, pickled cucumber, and a squeeze of lemon. A small glass of ice-cold vodka is the classic accompaniment.

Cook’s Notes

• True Latvian-style sprats are cold-smoked below 90 degrees C so the flesh stays silky rather than flaky; resist the urge to crank the heat or they will taste more like kippers.
• If you do not own a smoker, a heavy cast-iron pot with a rack and a foil packet of wood chips over medium-low heat on the stovetop gives a respectable result in 25 minutes.
• Always keep the fish fully submerged in oil; any exposed surface will discolor and dry out within days.
• Save the strained, flavored oil after the jar is empty; it is excellent for dressing boiled potatoes or frying eggs.
• For a milder finish, soak the brined fish in cold water for 15 minutes before drying and smoking.

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